Using the proper amount of seed for your project influences success, whether you're starting from scratch or overseeding an existing lawn. New lawns or spot repairs take about twice the amount of seed needed for overseeding thin areas. Quality grass seed labels include guidance on optimal seeding rates to maximize your results. Don't overdo or cut corners. Too much grass seed causes undue competition for resources such as light, water and nutrients, and grass seedlings struggle as a result. Too little seed leaves lawns thin or bare.
Getting your seeding rates right requires knowing the correct size of the area you need to cover. One of the most common problems grass professionals see is when homeowners misjudge their actual lawn areas and over-apply grass seed or other products, such as fertilizers and herbicides. Knowing your total property size is just the start. All non-lawn areas must then be deducted. This includes the footprints of your house, garage and outbuildings, as well as walkways and the driveway.
Only then can you calculate your actual lawn area and the amount of seed you need. Time spent on proper measurements prevents wasted product, wasted money and poor results.
Get it right and every bit of seed and labor work in your favor. It can be tempting to plant seed as soon as the need arises. But proper timing has an important impact on results. If you go very high, you run a much higher risk of damp off fungus, which will kill sprouts very quickly. Even if you escape that, disease will usually thin out the seedlings or young grasses until levels reduce to normal rates if you're lucky or below if you're not lucky.
I'm on an iPad so perhaps that is limiting me, but outside of the second pic I don't see any seed. I just overseeded the heck out of my backyard so I am interested in the replies as well. In my thread you can see seed shots, I dropped a lot down probably double bag rate. Is this too much, too little? What will help improve this collage wall? What does your backyard look like? Soapstone: What does it look like 10 years later?
Too much black vs. If one were to say, have seeded well beyond 10 pounds per sq ft, would it make sense to spray with Spectracide fungus like this one?
Even before anything starts to appear? Too harsh. Plus that contains insect control, which I'm not a fan of--and it's another stress on the seedlings, which are unlikely to be completely pleased with a fungicide. The first question here is Anything up to 20 or a bit more I doubt you'll have too much trouble with. Problems can appear at any seeding rate I've had damp off fungus when planting 1 seed per square inch for annual propagation , but risks rise dramatically as the number of seeds per square inch rises.
Weaker fungicides are fine in this particular instance as damp off fungus isn't particularly sturdy. Daconil and Triforine will both work Daconil better than Triforine. You can even defeat damp off fungus with a little sprinkle of cinnamon powder in very small areas.
Indoors, when seeding annuals, I use the cinnamon as the least toxic alternative since I have to breathe the air in here. It's impractical for lawns. I'm hijacking OPs thread so I apologize, but thank you for reply morpheuspa. Area about square feet. I calculated a bit off originally mental lapse. So about Off the cuff, there's a high probability of getting away with that completely unscathed as the rate is high but not completely unreasonable.
The grasses will naturally thin a a bit as the stronger ones outcompete the weaker, but that shouldn't set off any severe problems. If it does, a spray of cheap Daconil should set your lawn to rights. And as I said above, it's a numbers game. You can end up with damp off running rampant even in an under-seeded bed, it's just more likely in overly heavily seeded areas. I'm panicking for no reason. With a good starter fertilizer and a moist soil structure, a proper seed application uses a broadcast spreader as you walk in one direction across your yard.
After applying the seed in this direction, you turn to a degree angle and spread the seed again. This strategy makes your seed distribution even and easily raked into the soil for proper contact. If you have a small area to seed, it is possible to spread the seeds by hand if you mix 4 parts sawdust to 1 part seeds, as the sawdust provides a medium to uniformly spread the seeds without bunching them into one area after hand dispersal.
Writing professionally since , Amy Rodriguez cultivates successful cacti, succulents, bulbs, carnivorous plants and orchids at home. With an electronics degree and more than 10 years of experience, she applies her love of gadgets to the gardening world as she continues her education through college classes and gardening activities.
If you're wondering can you put down too much grass seed? The answer to this question is yes. Sowing more grass seeds than you need to do more harm to your lawn than good. The first issue that can occur as a result of putting down too much grass seed is a decrease in the rate that your seeds germinate. Whenever you sow grass seeds, each individual seed will compete for access to your soil to germinate.
When overseeding occurs, some may gain access quickly, whilst some may end up never reaching the soil at all. This can lead to problems with germination as the seeds that never access the soil will never germinate and the seeds that do get impacted by those that don't. Leading to slower growth rates, inhibited establishment and a slow-growing lawn.
Standard germination rates for grass seeds range between one to three weeks. Germination for overseeding seeds, however, can extend this even longer. As a result of putting down too much grass seed, you inadvertently cause increased competition between your seeds for all the essential resources that they need to germinate and grow, not just access to your soil.
All plants, including grass, require space in your soil for their roots to establish.
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