The motif or image on a jacquard often appears in a different color or texture than the rest of the material, but it can be the same color. Jacquard designs can be Byzantine in complexity think tapestry or as simple as a repeating geometric pattern. A jacquard is woven on a loom fitted with a head programmed to raise each warp thread the thread held stationary while the weft is drawn through it independently of the other threads.
The jacquard loom gives the weaver a finer tuned control to interlace up to several hundred warp threads, inspiring countless possible designs. Multiple color threads can be used to create a jacquard weave, resulting in complex gradations and patterns—landscapes, portraits, and other unique motifs are possible in a jacquard. And while it takes longer to create a jacquard weave, the result is a stretchier and more stable fabric than basic weaving yields.
The drape and durability of the finished jacquard ultimately depend upon the type of fibers used in the weave. A jacquard knit is either a single or double knit with a pattern on its face, achieved with jacquard controls on a knitting machine. Any kind of yarn can be used to create a jacquard knit.
Satin is a type of jacquard that achieves its familiar luster from floats on the surface of its weave. A brocade is merely an example of a jacquard, a heavy fabric with a colorful allover raised pattern or floral design with an embossed or embroidered effect; it may or may not incorporate gold or silver threads. The term itself does not indicate a specific weave, but instead describes the aesthetics of this typically elaborate fabric. Unlike damask, brocades are not reversible. In a continuous brocade, the weft threads are left floating on the back.
Sometimes these floating threads are cut away, leaving the short, cut ends visible. In a discontinuous brocade, the additional yarns used to create the elaborate pattern are woven into only the patterned areas, resulting in a smoother back.
Reverse side of the Fairisle fabric. This was a quick overview of the 3 most common techniques used to create patterned knitwear, and there are other techniques such as Intarsia that can create colourful patterns, but now there is no mystery as to how the most common types of colourful knits are created. Jacquard patterns - the 3 ways you should know.
Featured Posts. Flatbed vs Circular knitting - what's difference? How do you make a sweater? Recent Posts. Ethical Manufacturing - ask the hard questions. How to protect Merino knits against moths - the simple way. Stain Disasters - stay calm. This has limitations in the colours, only two per line, and the length of float across the back. However intarsia resolves these problems but comes with it's own.
If you have ever knitted an intarsia pattern by hand then knitting it on a machine is not much different. Instead of using the machine to select the needles and control the yarn the user has to do this.
In simple terms it means a picture, sometimes very complicated and with many colours can be re-created on a knitted fabric. I used this technique on the bf's wolf jumper, this was a simple pattern with three colours but a pain in the butt! Since then I have been noticing intarsia being used on many shop knits. I wondered how they translated this complicated and time consuming process into mass production, and below is the answer:. The video is in double time and I have cut out some bits but it shows me doing just three rows of work!
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